I need some hobby wedges or some other alternative way to glue the lower arm weapons to the shoulder. Gravity doesn't help the plastic to bond. This is the best solution I can come up with, as the tweezers are angled, I can slide it beneath each arm until they support it at the correct height. Luckily I had two of these, one for each arm.
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Working on Tau Battlesuit got me thinking about my towers again and some platform to hold the Battlesuits so I could finally get around to taking some photos. There was either the simple large hexagon, or six smaller ones to form one large multi-angled platform... I opted for the simple one. Luckuly I had to buy a maths set for my oldest son hence access to a Protractor that helped me cut this hexagon. I'm now tempted to create my own small hex bases. despite purchasing a lot of transparent hex bases from Fluid 3D that are a little bit thicker than I would like. This central platform would hopefully eventually hold the central Tau tower too.
Hole drilled so the beads drop into it so they don't stand out too much, size picked out (as some were thicker than others), glue in hand and first one almost in place... then my wife hands me this! 3mm adhesive Gems just barely small enough, but they definately looked better.
The first plan was to use the ends of the epic banner poles and sand them down so they were more curved. That proved a lot more effort than it was worth so I went hunting for the smallest beads I could find. I had quite a big stash due to my past hobbies (see Crafts). However I only had blue and in a subtle two size, hence the end of the banner pole becamse the third. However after a trip to Hobby Craft the same day, I picked up a box of Trimits Rocailles Green for for £1.80. It does seem a bit excessive just so I can have three of them on either side of my shrine...
More tools to add to the hobby, although these belong to my wife. She's been making pendants and other stuff using UV Resin and a UV light. I've helped her with her hobby before, but never thought to use it until now on my models. The tablet stand helped with positioning the model to give the UV light direct line to the underside. The UV resin definately better than super-glue as it creates a hard outer bond, but this creates an additional layer. Unfortunately I don't have a small enough head piece for the Dremel to sand it down. I even managed to coat the back of the very thin Striking Scoprion's chain-sword that also snapped recently. The resulting gloss of the UV can be painted over, that may be an advantage to the the recent crystals I've painted...
Everything I needed was in this Old Treasure Trove, although this left a layer of mess over my workbench. Seems some of these being shoved into a box with other sharp items over many years, meant some bags had small indents allowing particles to escape. First thing was to re-bag some of these.
This was what I had left from a pack of Milliput. It was likely bought ~20 years ago! Its a cheap alternative to Gamesworkshop green stuff especially when you need it in larger quantaties such as scenary pieces and dries much harder. Alhough what I had left was almost rock solid and even though I tried adding some water to the mixture, it wasn't mixing nicely. I used this many years ago for the Firedragon's Shrine and needed it for my Striking Scorpion's Shrine, hence purchase of a new pack. Hopefully if I ever get time away from Simcity Buildit, I'll be using this to make a support column and store the remainder in an air-tight bag.
The magnetic strip base has now been painted green as I need it to take photos for my Eldar Seer Council. While hunting for the old crystal scenary I used in my previous Eldar photos, I've come across several boxes of scenary pieces back when I was younger. These were before I discovered plastic card and all of these are on mounting card and sprisingly havent warped. Amongst them is a Cathedral and a wide building front. None of these were ever finished and I may get around to taking more photos... or even finishing them off!
was the Wave Serpent in opposite angles (top left and bottom right was out of focus, while the camera photos was always towards the edges.
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